THE WELL DRESSED MAN
Since clothes project
either a favourable or an unfavourable image of
a person, it is as important for a man to dress
well as it is for a woman. There are three
factors, which need to be attended to in order
to have a good wardrobe.
Fit Colour Dressing
to suit the occasion
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A man may economize on the
size of his wardrobe but never at the expense of
their quality and fit. It is more satisfying to
have a few expertly cut and fitted clothes that
are durable and look good than a haphazard
collection of ill-assorted attire.
SHIRTS
The shirt collar is very important as it
frames the face. A well-fitting collar of right
height and cut, both in front and at the back,
can subtly alter the age and appearance of the
wearer to a great extent.
Collar Size
- Collar sizes are fitted
to half an inch like 15, 15 1/2, 16 and so forth
but most individuals need a size that is a
quarter of an inch smaller or bigger as 15 1/4,
15 3/4 and so on.
- Many men are also
unaware that they are actually wearing tight
collars by sticking to the same collar size as
in their younger days when in fact, over the
years, due to slight gain in weight and
thickening of the neck, the collar size itself
changes marginally.
Collar back height
- The back height of the
collar is determined by the length of the neck
and very from 1.3/8inches to 2.1/4 inches.
- A long or short neck
can be made to look normal by increasing or
reducing the back height of the collar and thus
making the face it frames look
better.
Collar front height
- The front height of the
collar depends on the man's age, the angle at
which his neck sits on his body and whether he
walks with his head cast down or held high.
- A higher collar band
conceals a wrinkled neck.
Sleeves
- The sleeves of a
long-sleeved shirt should stop at the wrist and
the cuffs should not fall into the palm of the
hand, whilst those of the half-sleeved shirt
should hang loosely and reach half an inch above
the
elbow.
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TROUSERS
- The legs of the
trousers must not be so long as to fall in folds
over the shoe. If they are festooned over the
shoes they look unsightly and this makes the
wearer appear sloppy.
- Ideally, trousers
should be short enough to look neat and long
enough to cover the bare skin above the socks
when they are hitched up in a sitting posture.
- The width of the
trouser legs and other features are a matter of
fashion but pleats in trousers, though to some
extent guided by fashion, largely depend on the
figure of each
individual.
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SUIT JACKET
Jacket Length
- The jacket should be
long enough to cover seat entirely. When
buttoned, the bottom of the jacket should be
parallel to the floor from all
sides.
Sleeves
- The sleeves should
expose about half an inch of the shirt cuffs
when the arms hang loose and more when the arm
is bent. The jacket sleeve should never conceal
the entire shirt sleeve nor should it ever ride
up over the to edge of shirt cuff even when the
arm is fully stretched or bent.
Collar
- The collar should fit
low and close around the neck and slightly
expose the shirt collar at the
back.
Lapels
- When the collar fits
properly, it ensures that the lapels lie
flat.
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COLOUR COORDINATION
- Colour coordination for
men is comparatively simple and the range of
colours and shades for men are limited, unlike
for ladies, where possibilities are endless;
- There are colours which
make one's complexion sallow while there are
others which make one look radiant.
- One should therefore
consciously look at the colours one wears and
decide whether they are flattering to the
complexion are not.
Some Useful Trouser-Shirt
Combination
- A printed, striped or
checked shirt ought to be worn with plain
trouser and conversely, if the trousers are
striped or checked, the shirt should be
plain.
Complimentary Light and Dark
Colours
- If the trousers are of
dark colour then the shirt should be of
complimentary light colour. e.g. a light blue
shirt with dark blue trousers.
- Light coloured shirts
are preferable worn in the mornings and in
summers.
- Dark coloured shirts
are worn at nights and in winters.
- A black shirt and black
trousers look great if the wearer is of wheatish
or fair complexion.
- The above guidelines
can also be applied to suits where the suit is
of light colour and the shirt is of dark colour
or
vice-versa.
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TYPE OF CLOTHES
A man's wardrobe must consist of
- Business Clothes
- Casual
Clothes
Business Clothes
A man's wardrobe must consist of
- In temperate climatic
conditions, like say India, trousers and shirt
and perhaps a tie are an accepted mode of dress
in most organisations.
- The shirt should be
light coloured, either plain or with horizontal
or vertical stripes in light shades, having long
or short sleeves according to the weather,
comfort and individual taste.
- Prints of any kind are
to be avoided. A long-sleeved shirt should
always be buttoned at the cuffs. When wearing a
shirt without a tie, only the two collar buttons
may be left undone.
- The trousers could be
dark or light keeping the principles of colour
co-ordination in mind.
Casual Clothes
- T-shirts are also
popular casual wear and come in very attractive
colours and stripes.
- However, potbellied men
should first determine whether the T-shirt suits
them.
- T-shirts fit a little
snugly and can therefore be unflattering for a
bad figure. One would be better off buying a
T-shirt a size bigger than the required one as
T-shirts are notorious for shrinking after the
first wash.
- Wear a jacket or a
blazer with or without a tie for casual or
informal evening get-togethers. But one should
never pair the jacket of a business suit with a
pair of casual trousers for a casual look. Only
blazers or sports jackets can be worn with
casual
slacks.
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ACCESSORIES
Accessories if
not used with discretion, can spoil the entire
picture that a man presents.
Shoes
- A pair of black and brown shoes in leather
are appropriate for office and formal
affairs.
- Never wear sneakers to office or
business meetings.
- White formal shoes on
men are an absolute no-no! Avoid huge buckles,
strange colours and no heels.
- Pointed shoes are best
left for cowboys.
- For weekends and casual
outings, sneakers are the rage.
Ties
- Ties are great fashion
accessories for men. Wear flashy ties with a
sober ensemble and vice-versa.
- The size of the knot
and the length and the width of tie depends upon
dictates of prevailing fashion.
Socks
- Black socks and socks
in dark shades of blue, brown and the like go
with trousers of same colours. Light-coloured
socks such as beige, cream and light Grey go
well with light coloured trousers. White socks
look best with white trousers.
- Socks should be high
and should stay up that way, so that even when a
man sits down and crosses his legs, no flesh is
exposed as a result of the hitching up the
trousers.
- Thick sports socks must
be used only with keds and not with leather
shoes.
Handkerchief
- Use only freshly
laundered good quality, absorbent handkerchief.
It would be unpardonable to sport a soiled
handkerchief. Men should refrain from
straightening their handkerchiefs in public
view.
Wallet
- Those in the habit of
carrying a wallet should invest in a slim
leather wallet of good quality. A pocket stuffed
with a bulging wallet is an eyesore and very
unflattering.
Jewellery
- In the case of men's
jewellery, the good old saying "Less is
more" holds true. Men's jewellery should be
plain, masculine-looking and functional. A smart
pair of medium sized cuff-links, a simple ring,
a tie-pin and a good watch look nice on a
person. Anything more looks
unflattering.
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