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THE WELL DRESSED MAN

Since clothes project either a favourable or an unfavourable image of a person, it is as important for a man to dress well as it is for a woman. There are three factors, which need to be attended to in order to have a good wardrobe.

Fit Colour Dressing to suit the occasion

A man may economize on the size of his wardrobe but never at the expense of their quality and fit. It is more satisfying to have a few expertly cut and fitted clothes that are durable and look good than a haphazard collection of ill-assorted attire.

SHIRTS
The shirt collar is very important as it frames the face. A well-fitting collar of right height and cut, both in front and at the back, can subtly alter the age and appearance of the wearer to a great extent.

Collar Size
  • Collar sizes are fitted to half an inch like 15, 15 1/2, 16 and so forth but most individuals need a size that is a quarter of an inch smaller or bigger as 15 1/4, 15 3/4 and so on.
  • Many men are also unaware that they are actually wearing tight collars by sticking to the same collar size as in their younger days when in fact, over the years, due to slight gain in weight and thickening of the neck, the collar size itself changes marginally.

Collar back height

  • The back height of the collar is determined by the length of the neck and very from 1.3/8inches to 2.1/4 inches.
  • A long or short neck can be made to look normal by increasing or reducing the back height of the collar and thus making the face it frames look better.

Collar front height

  • The front height of the collar depends on the man's age, the angle at which his neck sits on his body and whether he walks with his head cast down or held high.
  • A higher collar band conceals a wrinkled neck.

Sleeves

  • The sleeves of a long-sleeved shirt should stop at the wrist and the cuffs should not fall into the palm of the hand, whilst those of the half-sleeved shirt should hang loosely and reach half an inch above the elbow.

TROUSERS

  • The legs of the trousers must not be so long as to fall in folds over the shoe. If they are festooned over the shoes they look unsightly and this makes the wearer appear sloppy.
  • Ideally, trousers should be short enough to look neat and long enough to cover the bare skin above the socks when they are hitched up in a sitting posture.
  • The width of the trouser legs and other features are a matter of fashion but pleats in trousers, though to some extent guided by fashion, largely depend on the figure of each individual.

SUIT JACKET

Jacket Length

  • The jacket should be long enough to cover seat entirely. When buttoned, the bottom of the jacket should be parallel to the floor from all sides.

Sleeves

  • The sleeves should expose about half an inch of the shirt cuffs when the arms hang loose and more when the arm is bent. The jacket sleeve should never conceal the entire shirt sleeve nor should it ever ride up over the to edge of shirt cuff even when the arm is fully stretched or bent.

Collar

  • The collar should fit low and close around the neck and slightly expose the shirt collar at the back.

Lapels

  • When the collar fits properly, it ensures that the lapels lie flat.

COLOUR COORDINATION

  • Colour coordination for men is comparatively simple and the range of colours and shades for men are limited, unlike for ladies, where possibilities are endless;
  • There are colours which make one's complexion sallow while there are others which make one look radiant.
  • One should therefore consciously look at the colours one wears and decide whether they are flattering to the complexion are not.

Some Useful Trouser-Shirt Combination

  • A printed, striped or checked shirt ought to be worn with plain trouser and conversely, if the trousers are striped or checked, the shirt should be plain.

Complimentary Light and Dark Colours

  • If the trousers are of dark colour then the shirt should be of complimentary light colour. e.g. a light blue shirt with dark blue trousers.
  • Light coloured shirts are preferable worn in the mornings and in summers.
  • Dark coloured shirts are worn at nights and in winters.
  • A black shirt and black trousers look great if the wearer is of wheatish or fair complexion.
  • The above guidelines can also be applied to suits where the suit is of light colour and the shirt is of dark colour or vice-versa.

TYPE OF CLOTHES

A man's wardrobe must consist of

  • Business Clothes
  • Casual Clothes

Business Clothes

A man's wardrobe must consist of

  • In temperate climatic conditions, like say India, trousers and shirt and perhaps a tie are an accepted mode of dress in most organisations.
  • The shirt should be light coloured, either plain or with horizontal or vertical stripes in light shades, having long or short sleeves according to the weather, comfort and individual taste.
  • Prints of any kind are to be avoided. A long-sleeved shirt should always be buttoned at the cuffs. When wearing a shirt without a tie, only the two collar buttons may be left undone.
  • The trousers could be dark or light keeping the principles of colour co-ordination in mind.

Casual Clothes

  • T-shirts are also popular casual wear and come in very attractive colours and stripes.
  • However, potbellied men should first determine whether the T-shirt suits them.
  • T-shirts fit a little snugly and can therefore be unflattering for a bad figure. One would be better off buying a T-shirt a size bigger than the required one as T-shirts are notorious for shrinking after the first wash.
  • Wear a jacket or a blazer with or without a tie for casual or informal evening get-togethers. But one should never pair the jacket of a business suit with a pair of casual trousers for a casual look. Only blazers or sports jackets can be worn with casual slacks.

ACCESSORIES

Accessories if not used with discretion, can spoil the entire picture that a man presents.

Shoes

  • A pair of black and brown shoes in leather are appropriate for office and formal affairs.
  • Never wear sneakers to office or business meetings.
  • White formal shoes on men are an absolute no-no! Avoid huge buckles, strange colours and no heels.
  • Pointed shoes are best left for cowboys.
  • For weekends and casual outings, sneakers are the rage.

Ties

  • Ties are great fashion accessories for men. Wear flashy ties with a sober ensemble and vice-versa.
  • The size of the knot and the length and the width of tie depends upon dictates of prevailing fashion.

Socks

  • Black socks and socks in dark shades of blue, brown and the like go with trousers of same colours. Light-coloured socks such as beige, cream and light Grey go well with light coloured trousers. White socks look best with white trousers.
  • Socks should be high and should stay up that way, so that even when a man sits down and crosses his legs, no flesh is exposed as a result of the hitching up the trousers.
  • Thick sports socks must be used only with keds and not with leather shoes.

Handkerchief

  • Use only freshly laundered good quality, absorbent handkerchief. It would be unpardonable to sport a soiled handkerchief. Men should refrain from straightening their handkerchiefs in public view.

Wallet

  • Those in the habit of carrying a wallet should invest in a slim leather wallet of good quality. A pocket stuffed with a bulging wallet is an eyesore and very unflattering.

Jewellery

  • In the case of men's jewellery, the good old saying "Less is more" holds true. Men's jewellery should be plain, masculine-looking and functional. A smart pair of medium sized cuff-links, a simple ring, a tie-pin and a good watch look nice on a person. Anything more looks unflattering.
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